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T Class Pre-Race Inspection......check list...SUGGESTIONS??

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 PostPosted: November 7th, 2012, 1:46 pm   
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T CLASS PRE-RACE INSPECTION


Boat #_____________________

Class__________________Date__________________Location___________________________

Has anything happened or changed since your last inspection__________________
Last inspection date__________________

Driver’s Signature__________________________________________________
I have read and understand the CBF General Safety Rules and the CBF SO Safety Rules

PRE-RACE INSPECTION PROCEDURE CHECK LIST
1.The boat and trailer
-Check the deck is glassed or fastened to the hull
- Check for cracks, open seams, hull must be sound
- Check the transom is glassed to the rest of the boat
- Check boat and trailer race numbers
- Check fire extinguisher
- Check paddle
2. The engine
- Check that the engine is securely bolted to the boat directly or with a set-back
- Check the motor mounts to see if they are worn or loose or broken
- Check power trim hydraulic lines for breaks, fittings for leaks and switch[s]
3. Steering wheel
- Check the steering wheel bolted to the dashboard
- Check wheel for cracks or breaks
- Check tension on steering cables
- Check the steering pulleys condition
- Check the steering cables ..proper material, not frayed or broken
- Check condition of swivel bracket and steering arm
- Check the steering fasteners on the boat, bolted on and safety wired
- Check the steering bar is not cracked and is bolted to the engine with no movement
4. Gas Tank.
- Check the gas tank for leaks
- Check to make sure that the cap on the gas tank is on tight and tank securely fastened in the boat
- Check air vent check valve system
5.Fuel line
- Check condition not weathered or cracked.
- Check route to motor confirm they are not lying next to any electrical cables
- Check the fittings at the engine and tank ends for no leaks
6. The battery
- Check the battery is in good condition and securely fastened to the boat
7. Floatation
- The rule is really unenforceable, we are not about to take somebody’s boat and sink it to see if it has enough floatation.
A total of 16 square feet of contained and fastened foam will work.
8. Kill switch
- Check using a spark test with switch first connected and then disconnected.
WHILE CRANKING FOR THE TEST, DO A COMPRESSION TEST ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS
9. Cockpit area
- Check that it is clear of any unessential items, wires are tied and secure
- Check throttle, shift and electrical cables out of the way
- Check for bolts protruding beyond reason.
- Check foot throttle return spring pulls throttle back to idle position
- Check carb[s] that they open and close properly
- Check shift control operation and confirm motor has F-N-R
- Check and make sure the seat is securely fastened.
10. Life jacket, Cut suit, Helmet


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 PostPosted: November 28th, 2012, 8:59 am   
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I have had two comments on this list. Both were the same. They thought there was too much detail and too many individual items listed. An experienced inspector would not require all of the items. They would know what to check.
I totally agree. I did have the list much shorter. BUT, there is another reason. This list is also for the racer to check their boat. For those that are not as experienced it is important for them to know exactly what is required. The longer more detailed list helps them and it will save time in the inspection process with their boats better prepared. The T Booklet is the same way. It is simple and easy to understand. That was Erik's first comment on seeing the draft of the booklet.


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 PostPosted: November 28th, 2012, 9:50 am   
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Joined: April 10th, 2012, 1:37 pm
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Location: Dunnville
an experinced inspector can see most by a quick walk around i would think?,looks fine to me , what is the proper steering cable? also number 3 ..my steering wheel has to be bolted to the dashboard? i wanted to leave it floating :lol:

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#49 Triple C Racing
T750 Delta/ omc


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 PostPosted: November 28th, 2012, 9:54 am   
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Aircraft cable is the correct cable.


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