HPBCANADA.COM

I hear ya there man! Something about fiberglass grinding now triggers a gut response at the faint smell of it. Its nasty, but nessesary.

I wear a full head-to-toe tyvec suit, old shoes, long gloves, good mask, snowboard googles, and a touque.

After reading about the issues with epoxy, and that it can trigger an allergic sensitivity that differs in each human, I decided to take that seriously. I read a few testimonials about how dudes had worked with it for a while, and then got sick. They cant go near the stuff now, or they have serious breathing, and skin issues. Just cause it dont stink dont mean its safe.

For a cheap ass like me to spend $180 bucks on the best appropriate full face 3M with organic compound filters says alot. It is so comfy I could wear the thing all day, and it doesnt fog, drip water, etc. It fully seals off my eyes/nose/mouth. I bought it for layup, but wish I had it for the grind out stage.

For a super newb on this glassing stuff, the epoxy seemed like a good choice. Long working times are an advantage when your learning.

Oh ya, I hear you on the safety equipment.
I got a lung full of mould 2 years ago. Thought I was gonna die, knocked me down for quite a while.
Carry a North Safety silicone half mask and all the filters and cartridges at all times now.
Already had the rest of the gear.
We could and should start a Safety Thread now that it's coming up to boat work season.

The stringers are in! They are coated in epoxy except for the top portions to be trimmed down to floor height. The taper down noses, and transom knees are have contoured rads for tabbing/wrapping with cloth in the next stages. They are bedded to the bottom with Cabosil thickened, and milled fibered mixed epoxy. I applied the mix with a large ziplock bag with duct tape reinforced corner cut off like a pastry bag. It worked very well to squirt down an even bead of the sticky goo in a quick easy way. A quick pass with a squigee tool to even out the excess goo that squeezed out down the edges after. The 1/2 radiuses will be added after the core goes in for full tabbing and top skin.

I "found" a decent vacuum pump at work that seems to fit the bill for bagging. Im trying to figure out the rest and how to do it. I would be using it to put the core in. Im not sure if you would put the top glass in too, in the same bag, at the same time.

So many questions. Im solid on the plumbing, and fittings etc. The process, how much resin, peel ply-breather-bag alternatives to boat store stuff are my questions. I understand you put resin down and it pulls it up. Wait till it cures, shut vacuum off, and peel it off.

This is a good source of info on DIY Vac Pressses as well as alternative consumable supplies. Check out Project V2.
While this guys main purpose is applying veneers the tools are the same.
Some good DIY tips for those just getting into vac bagging.
https://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/welcome.htm

Nice! thanks for the link. I also found this one:

http://www.krsuper2.com/vacuumbag.html

Its very well written, and the thorough-ness in describing details i like. I will read yours next.

If this vacuum bagging stuff works out good I figure an extra $100 bucks in supplies is well worth the boost in build quality. I never planned on it, but my goal of hitting water before its frozen is out anyway.

I couldnt think of a better way to be accurate when trimming down my stringers. Pain in the ass! But, with a little more file work its gonna be tight to the floor bottom.



I burt up one of my old dremels. Marine ply is dense stuff.

This weekends progress was floor fitting, planning for seat, tanks, and batt location. Also tabbed in the knees to the inner transom, and gooed in the block for the drain plug. The block is old skin cut up, layered, and laminated with fiberous thickend epoxy. It will be drilled and coated on the inside.











I want to have stainless t-nuts in the floor for several interior arrangements. It will most likley be just the single suspension bucket seat on most days, but can setup for other types of trips. Im going to run two oldschool metal tanks with the batt inbetween. Is it a bad idea to run a "Y" from both tanks to the bulb, so they get consumed together instead of draining one first? Does the fuel pump not like it?

I gave up trying to find a fuel cell to fit my needs. If i ever need to be that racey i could install one where the back seat is.

The 1/2" balsa is finally going in. This vacuum bagging stuff has been a bit of a pain, but successful. I went elcheapo on my materials. The bag is plastic drop cloth from HD. I poked holes in the med wht. stuff over some peg board. Using paper towel as breather. Buytl tape type stuff sold for window sealing, carpet tape, and duck tape. The "peel ply" is 100% nylon dress liner from fabricland. The peelply from the glass supply store was actully comparable in price. The dress liner worked great, but im sure the real stuff is better. The real stuff has a tracer so it can be seen easy after wetout which the dresslimer does not.
My first shot at it was in the worst place down the center of the stringers. I couldnt pull good psi due to fumbling the bag up under the gun. I just abandoned it and used wieght there. Im confident its a great bond since its dead flat, and distributed the weight perfectly even. The holes for drainage in the stringers are also not easy to seal up.
The side part here in the pic went well and pulled 6-7psi for 8 hrs. It was easy to track down the few minor leaks with my ear and jam more sealent and tape down. I took a full hour to prep the bags etc. over just putting it in with weights. The bagging will add roughly 10 hrs to the build, but its worth the piece of mind. At this rate i hope to be spraying finish coats in spring. Cant wait to rip this thing.

Good for you...that is a big effort. I've done bagging with Spaeth and it is the most stressful thing I've done lol. I'd love to get set up to do it myself...thats awesome.