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Snowbird's orphaned Charger 16DL

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 PostPosted: June 29th, 2013, 10:08 am   
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I've got another question. I know that all it takes to go fast is money, but what would you think the practical top speed for this boat would be? Jack plate, low water pickup, 1991 merc 200 equipped. Just a best guess. Thanks.


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 PostPosted: June 29th, 2013, 1:52 pm   
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My 18DL would run 80 with a 200. The 16 always seemed to get squirly with big power. A friend of mine had an XR2 on a 16DL that I got into the low 70's but it was very unpredictable and never felt really safe at higher speeds. Having said that, it was a rocket outta the hole and was fun into the 60's.


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 PostPosted: June 29th, 2013, 5:08 pm   
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OK. Got the second transom layer pieces cut, routed, and fitted.

Image

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I'm pretty much ready to clean everything with acetone and start mixing epoxy. Is it normal to be nervous as hell? I've gone as far as writing down a order of operations checklist. I only get one chance to get this right. If this goes south on me, I'll not be doing it again. Everything after this is just a matter of materials wasted but the transom is a one shot deal. I might try to do it tomorrow. I'm using the slowest hardener west system makes.


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 PostPosted: June 29th, 2013, 11:03 pm   
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floridacharger wrote:
Doc, by dry I assume you mean no moisture, correct? I have some questions for you or anybody that might know. Would the transom be any stronger if i epoxied a layer of woven between the layers? Also, is there a good reason the factory didn't bond the floor to the hull and center stringer? Seems to me it would "lock" the hull together. Kinda like a unibody versus framed cars. Thanks.


I'd be putting a layer or two of mat between the coosa.

The floor should be bonded as you suggest for the reasons you suggested...maybe the guys at the factory booked off early that day lol.

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 PostPosted: June 30th, 2013, 8:42 am   
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Thanks, dok. Which do you think would be stronger- chopped strand mat or woven?


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 PostPosted: June 30th, 2013, 10:47 am   
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Never mind, i forgot that CSM is not compatible with epoxy. Cloth it is.


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 PostPosted: June 30th, 2013, 10:58 am   
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Ya...I know nothing about epoxy so I'm not one to ask about that stuff. It my opinion that you don't need to add strenth between the layers as much as something in there to hold the resin and help compensate for any gaps in the material....basically just to get the best bond between the sheets.

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 PostPosted: July 1st, 2013, 7:29 pm   
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I like these threads alot!!!! Keep it coming!


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 PostPosted: July 1st, 2013, 9:21 pm   
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[quote="Northbase"]My 18DL would run 80 with a 200. The 16 always seemed to get squirly with big power. A friend of mine had an XR2 on a 16DL that I got into the low 70's but it was very unpredictable and never felt really safe at higher speeds. Having said that, it was a rocket outta the hole and was fun into the 60's.[/quote)
I run just over 76 with my xr6 150, I need to try some more props as I have only tried a chopper on it. i think it has more in it. I find it to be very stable. A couple of years back someone up in Muskoka ran one with either a 200 or 225 and was in the low eighths, he also had access to some very good props. I would think 80 is not out of the question for your setup.

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 PostPosted: July 2nd, 2013, 1:11 pm   
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80's would be most excellent. Got another question(y'all said to ask away!). I've checked my hull for hook and found about a 1/8" gap with a 4' level. I know correcting that will improve top speed but does it do anything for stability? Is that enough to worry about? I've got some deep scratches that are going to require adding some filler so i could take care of it then. Very labor intensive, though. Adding, sanding, checking, add some more, ect. ect. More than happy to do it if it would make difference, especially in handling. Called blueprinting, right? And i would take it out to 5', not 4'.

Thanks, Steve


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