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Early 90s Merc 25 HP Water Flow Question

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 PostPosted: August 24th, 2013, 3:42 pm   
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dubber wrote:
Ok another question about this motor. I am not in front of it, it is my father in law's motor and he has the questions over the phone. To pull the lower unit out I seem to think that the shift shaft needs to be disconnected in the motor area somewhere and then it should slide out. Am I on the right track? It is a tiller motor if that info helps.


well once agian im not familiar with that motor,but id say you don't, but as soon as i do dok will tell you the right way ;) my buddys 4 hp 7.5hp and 9.8 hp the lower just pulls off after the nuts are removed..hope that helps.im sorry i cant be a better help. :(

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 PostPosted: August 24th, 2013, 3:43 pm   
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKD26YcZPT0 this one needs the shift shaft disconnected. :? is it like this one :?:

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 PostPosted: August 24th, 2013, 9:20 pm   
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BoomerMuskoka wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKD26YcZPT0 this one needs the shift shaft disconnected. :? is it like this one :?:


Thanks Boomer. Not the same model but likely a similar procedure. I passed it onto my father in law to see if it helps him get it off. He lives a couple of hours from me so I cannot see the motor to help him figure it out.

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 PostPosted: September 2nd, 2013, 9:45 am   
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yes you need to unhook the shift shaft, there is a clip below the carburetor, you need to have that motor in a bucket to run it on shore, they need to be submerged half way up the mid or at least an inch or two above the lower unit, if you did run it on a flush tool the pump is likely toast now, make sure when you install the new pump that you rotate the driveshaft clockwise while installing the pump body to get the proper bend in the blades, They will pump water within 20 seconds unless the t-stat is junk.

rgds,

Dave


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 PostPosted: September 3rd, 2013, 7:43 am   
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crankbearing wrote:
yes you need to unhook the shift shaft, there is a clip below the carburetor, you need to have that motor in a bucket to run it on shore, they need to be submerged half way up the mid or at least an inch or two above the lower unit, if you did run it on a flush tool the pump is likely toast now, make sure when you install the new pump that you rotate the driveshaft clockwise while installing the pump body to get the proper bend in the blades, They will pump water within 20 seconds unless the t-stat is junk.

rgds,

Dave


Thank you! I will be seeing my father in law soon. He has a new pump that he plans to install (reason for the LU removal). I am guessing that in lieu of spinning the drive shaft cw the water pump housing could be spun ccw no? Can you put a splash of WD40 on the blades to help spin the housing on?

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 PostPosted: September 4th, 2013, 5:00 pm   
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I always put them in dry but some use dish soap - ( a little bit) take a rag with a set of vise grips just enuff to get a grip on the shaft, turn the driveshaft cw as you are lightly pushing down on the pump body it will fall into place like butter. Measure the shift shaft from the gearcase to the top as soon as you pull it off and measure it again before you put it back to make sure it's the same. in fwd or neutral or reverse. I take em off in neutral. some of those units had a plastic washer on the center of the impeller I have seen some with one, two and none. just watch for the placement when removing the old pump in case.


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 PostPosted: September 6th, 2013, 7:06 pm   
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Thanks all - he is good to go now.

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