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Pad straightening

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 PostPosted: July 12th, 2012, 9:11 am   
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How far forward from the transom should the pad stay square without the sides rolling off on my delta? youll notice on each edge you can see light under the level, at one point it will have to do this as it forms more of a V the further forward you go, just not sure if it should be 8,10,12 inches perfect flat or more?
Thanks
Jeremy


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 PostPosted: July 12th, 2012, 10:40 am   
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When I fooled with the pad on my old delta, I sharpened the edges so that it didn't just 'round off' but rather looked like a beveled edge. I have no idea if thats the way it's supposed to look but I think it worked.
Heres an old picture of how I tried to find low spots and create a straight edge.
It was a learning experience lol
Image

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 PostPosted: July 12th, 2012, 11:21 am   
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p man wrote:
When I fooled with the pad on my old delta, I sharpened the edges so that it didn't just 'round off' but rather looked like a beveled edge. I have no idea if thats the way it's supposed to look but I think it worked.
Heres an old picture of how I tried to find low spots and create a straight edge.
It was a learning experience lol
Image



your looks like it formed a V goin forward? and only the whole width of the very back was flat?

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 PostPosted: July 12th, 2012, 11:35 am   
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tunnelv wrote:
p man wrote:
When I fooled with the pad on my old delta, I sharpened the edges so that it didn't just 'round off' but rather looked like a beveled edge. I have no idea if thats the way it's supposed to look but I think it worked.
Heres an old picture of how I tried to find low spots and create a straight edge.
It was a learning experience lol
Image



your looks like it formed a V goin forward? and only the whole width of the very back was flat?


The pad on that boat was different than most I've seen....and since your pad is already flat just make it flat for as long as possible and sharpen the edges. I think the critical thing is to be flat front to back so you don't have a hook. There are many theories on pad shape and design but I think the universal rule is that the pad is straight....

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 PostPosted: July 12th, 2012, 4:26 pm   
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front to back is supposed to be the most important. John Tiger said as little as 1/16" makes a big difference as to how the boat will fly. are you going to use the 3M green filler?

Steve

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 PostPosted: July 12th, 2012, 7:51 pm   
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straight pad is the universal rule except for the famous Ally lip


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 PostPosted: July 12th, 2012, 8:03 pm   
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David wrote:
straight pad is the universal rule except for the famous Ally lip


This was in reference to T boats.....There's lots of boats with hooked/lipped/hihedral pads...but it seems on a race boat that goes in circles a straight (non-hooked) pad is best for getting around corners.

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 PostPosted: July 13th, 2012, 8:55 am   
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beavertonae-21 wrote:
front to back is supposed to be the most important. John Tiger said as little as 1/16" makes a big difference as to how the boat will fly. are you going to use the 3M green filler?

Steve

no not using that, have in the past that stuff is like sanding cement, just using green mar glass filler

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 PostPosted: July 13th, 2012, 9:01 am   
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thanks guys, any suggestions i am open, dont know how much of a t boat pad mattters, i have no hook at all the entire length, the pad starts to roll off at about 8 inches if i want to keep this ill have to add more filler to bring the taper further forward, this 1st shot is 8 inches from the back the next is 12 inches


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File comment: this is 8 inches from the back
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File comment: this shot is at 12 inches from the back
P1020833 (Small).JPG
P1020833 (Small).JPG [ 31.36 KiB | Viewed 1916 times ]

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 PostPosted: July 13th, 2012, 8:38 pm   
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I'm crushed. I thought Allison was unique with the deliberate hook/lip. Although I try to avoid the work hook and Allison in the same sentence.


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